Thursday, May 1, 2014

Two posts in one: Stagnation and Rebirth


5/4/14


Things were on a roll, for a while, but seem to have stalled, lately.

It is very difficult to have no one to help me on projects, and the ever-increasing heat leaves me feeling un-motivated for most of the hours in a day.

Before our next PC deadline-our Project Design and Management conference at the end of May-I am going to accomplish the following:

-Finish a second draft of my VSA, as well as a PowerPoint presentation of it.
-Build and improved cook stove with/for my family.
-Work with the rest of the Dang-ers to finish our IPM curriculum.

I am hoping that if I can work on these three things, every day, I won’t feel so bored.  So that’s “work.”

Family stuff has been difficult, lately.  I had my first moment of wanting to go home, last week.  I got back from being away for the day and found out that Danny had killed three of my family’s chicks.  While this was bad, it’s also irritating, because we do not use the chickens for meat or eggs, so I’m not completely clear on why we have them.  Regardless, it’s a really bad habit for a dog to get in.  My family did not seem particularly upset, and would not take money to reimburse them, so I figured that was that.  However, the next morning, after letting Danny out, I hear Danny screaming and crying like I’d never heard before.  I ran downstairs and saw my Buba kicking Danny in the head and trying to prevent him from getting up the stairs, to me.  My Buba told me that he’d caught Danny going after another chicken.  I was very upset and had to grab Danny away from Buba, while screaming that Danny was my dog and would not be treated that way. 

I ran up to my room, hysterical, holding a shaking Danny.  I called my parents to see what they thought that I should do.  We agreed that from now on, I will have to keep Danny tied up.  This makes me sad, although he’s gotten pretty used to it.  He gets tangled, a lot, so I have to listen for his cries to un-tangle him. 

The hardest part about the whole situation, is they way that it subtly changed the family dynamics.  My family is far less affectionate with Danny, and for days afterwards, I felt like the whole village hated me and were talking about what had happened.  Also, my Buba called Peace Corps to complain about Danny, saying that he was “out of control.”  This is completely ridiculous.  He’s a puppy.  He’s a puppy that I’m trying to train, with no support from them.  They complain that he’s “out of control,” but then do nothing to help me train him-it’s very frustrating.  It’s not the perfect example of Peace Corps integration, but, honestly, I care more about Danny than I do about them and, if I had to choose between them, I’d choose Danny, every time. 

Things are a bit better, now.  My Buba took Danny to get his rabies vaccination, and bought him a leash in town, but I don’t think I can ever forget what happened.  I always admired how gentle he was, but now that incident will always be in the back of my mind.

Other things going on:

We are continuing to work on our IPM curriculum, although it’s slow going.  In addition, this week, Ben and I went to Ghorahai to meet with some NGOs and Government officials.  We visited five offices in an afternoon-it was exhausting.  Of most importance was our visit to WOREC-a women’s empowerment anti-domestic violence organization.  I am hoping to work with them, although they did not give us any specifics about help that we could give them.  It was nice just to be spoken to.  In this country, when you are with a man, he is always the one that is spoken and listened to.  I just have to sit there, and try to tune out my feminist rage.  WOREC, of course, was different-refreshing. 

The week after next, I may be going to Kathmandu for a week or so, to have my teeth (finally) taken care of.  The PC doctor is still claiming that I don’t need my wisdom teeth out, but everyone else disagrees with him-especially ACTUAL dentists.  My friend also needs dental work done, and there will be other volunteers in town for meetings, so hopefully we’ll be able to hang out.  In addition, Elizabeth and I are hoping to be able to apply for our Indian visas, while in KTM.

Final thoughts:

I think I’ll have hearing damage from the buses in this country.  The music is always soooo loud-why?  I can’t wait to get back to the serenity of American public transportation. 

I went to a religious festival yesterday.  It was super boring-we just watched some women dance.  The only people that spoke to me were a huge group of people who came up to me to harass me for money to build a new temple.  I was furious!! They would not leave me alone, and my Ama just sat there.  I tried to explain that I don’t have any money of my own, and that I can’t give PC’s money to their temple fund (which, actually, I probably could), but they just wouldn’t leave.  Finally, my Buba stepped in, after about 10 minutes.  So much for being welcomed into the community!  The other PCVs and I have been talking about this, recently.  PC tells us to integrate, to do whatever it takes, but the bottom line is, we’ll always be outsiders.  At this point, all of us have given up, to a certain extent.  We’re no longer as worried about dressing appropriately at all times, about not sharing food when we’re in public, about not touching when we’re in public.  If we’re going to stand out, we mind as well be comfortable when we do it.

Xoxox,

Zoop

1/5/14

Happy Beltane/May Day

Today is a day for new beginnings-whether it be flowers just sprouting back home, or new resolutions here, in my hot little room in Nepal.  With that in mind, I have resolved to be more positive (I think that we all know that I can dive into negative mind-space, sometimes), and also be more proactive in starting projects in my community.  The hardest part about this job is motivating myself to go out and talk to people I don’t know, in a language that I don’t know very well, about things that, frankly, I don’t know a lot about-just thinking about it gives me the willies.  BUT, it is important for me to do, especially since I don’t really have a counterpart to work with.  In the next few months, as the weather descends into heat and rain, I will be working on fundraising and infrastructure building to support a village library project, and the purchase of an ambulance.  In addition, I will be working on hand-washing stations with Ben, and hopefully be forming a WID/GAD Committee. 

Speaking of the later, WID/GAD (Women in Development/Gender and Development) is a committee that many PC countries have, but is lacking in Nepal.  As such, I have, in speaking to top PC Nepal staff, decided to spear-head the effort to start one here.  This committee will be responsible for developing and implementing gender trainings for PCTs, PVCs and PC staff, develop curriculum and project outlines for gender sensitive programs for PCVs to implement at their site and will be the liaison between the Nepali Government’s women-centered programs, Nepal-based women’s rights groups, and PC Nepal.  I am very excited about this!  Unfortunately, my excitement about this, and my lack of excitement about many of the projects that I have to do at site underlines one of the issues that have been on my mind, in the last few weeks.  I just don’t think I’m a very good field person.  I so much more enjoy (and am good at) organizational and management-type work.  I would so much rather call PC volunteers, organize meetings, do research and prepare presentations than go make a garden.  It’s not only that I’m lazy (which I suspect, sometimes, that I am), but also it’s that I like to play to my strengths, and organizing has always been strength, while gardening (etc.) definitely has not!

I went to Kathmandu last week, to have a suspicious mole looked at, and a dental exam for my wisdom tooth.  Kathmandu is always a nice change-the chance to have “American” food, go to bars, see other non-Nepali people, flirt with boys, wear normal clothing, dance, shop-all very fun.  However, a week in Kathmandu will also make you broke (if you’re living off of the $200/month) that PC provides us, and may give you a respiratory infection from the pollution.  My mole was removed for testing-the doctor does not think it’s cancerous, but says that because of Nepal’s high UV index, it is probably just premature skin aging-oh joy!!  The dentist that finally looked at my wisdom tooth recommended immediate removal and seemed shocked that it hadn’t been removed months ago, when first recommended (thanks PC doctor, for that!).  She said that if I’d waited until the area really started giving me pain, that would have indicated that not only had the wisdom tooth moved enough to mess up the entire alignment of my bottom teeth, but that the cavity on the neighboring tooth (common with impacted wisdom teeth, as you cannot brush between them) would have been so developed that I would have had to have a root canal.  So, on June 4th, I fly to Thailand (by myself!) and will be there for at least a week to have my wisdom tooth removed.  I am nervous for several reasons:

1. I hate the dentist and am dreading having to do this by myself, especially since; apparently, it will involve an over-night stay in the hospital.

2.  I don’t speak Thai!

3. I’m not sure how far the money that PC will give me will do.  What if I feel so crummy that I can’t leave the hotel, and can’t go to the cheap food courts that are all I can afford?

4. What if I feel fine, and want to explore the city, but have no one to go with, and no idea what to do?

5.  I’m irritated that I’m 5 hours away from beaches and won’t be able to go. 

On the other hand, I’m excited for:

1. A plane ride-I love those!

2. Slushies-Elizabeth says that 7/11s in Bangkok have them.  I didn’t drink them in America, but I will sure get one there!

3. Maybe getting to go see an American movie!

So, if anyone wants to come meet me in Bangkok, tickets are about $1,000 round-trip, right now.  It may be a lot of loafing around while I moan in pain, but on the other hand, it would be loafing around WITH ME.

Other news:

Danny was very, very sick earlier this week.  He didn’t eat anything for nearly three days, and I had to force-feed him water.  He was very thin and very weak.  We finally got an assistant vet to look at him, who took his temperature (in the butt) with a dirty thermometer, and then, to clean it, just wiped it on Danny’s hair-I was incensed!  He prescribed some worm medication (but only after I suggested it) and some stupid liver oil.  Danny threw up the first tablet, but managed to keep the second one down for a few hours.  He’s recovered now, but I was very, very worried, maybe to a ridiculous extent.  However, I’m sure that you dog-lovers would understand.  Not only do I love dogs in normal life, but also here, in Nepal, there are times when I feel like Danny is all I have.  To lose him would be absolutely devastating. He’s back to his feisty ways, for better or worse.

I got two packages from my parents-filled to the brim with practical, lovely, yummy things as well as some gifts for my family (which they loved).

I was speaking to my family about kamlaris last night.  Kamlari is a system of indentured servitude/slavery in Nepal.  It is technically illegal, but is still going on.  The government reports that there are still 350 kamlari in the country, although I suspect that that number is low.  Kamlari are young girls from poor families who are sold to rich families as servants.  The work for a standard period of time (or sometimes for their whole lives), do not go to school, and are treated very poorly.  Many kamlari are from ethnic minority families, like Tharus, and the practice is very prevalent in the Terai, where I live.  There has recently been a push by former kamlari and kamlari support organizations to make real progress in banning the practice and punishing “employers.”  So, with this in mind, I was asking my family if there were any Kamlari in our area.  They said that there weren’t, but two years ago, there were-which is just shocking.  My Buba was telling me that the house that I was supposed to live in, in our village, had up to 20 kamlari, as recently as four years ago!  In addition, I discovered that my Hajur Ama (grandmother-my Buba’s mother) was a kamlari, as a child.  She explained to me, chuckling disconcertingly, that she was a kamlari for three years, then returned to work in her own home for three years, then was married. I was on the verge of tears and did not have the heart to ask her how old she was, when this arrangement was begun.  Needless to say, the kamlari situation is deeply on my mind.  I’m not sure how much I can do, concerning this issue, but it has now been added to the long list of possible projects to try, in my next 18 ½ months. 

Next week, we are going to build my family’s improved cook stove.  Also, my counterpart is finally returning from Kathmandu, so I hope to meet with him to do some planning for the coming months.  Besides that, I foresee a lot of the same-reading in my room (it is now in the high 90s or low 100s every day), waiting for the power to come on, so I can watch a movie, or so a little bit of work or research.    

Coming next post:  A list of all the books that I have read in Nepal.  It is over 40.  Try and keep up, if you can! Plus, more photos.

XOXO,

Zoop

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